Tokyo Fantastic
Energy and order in the world's largest city
I’ve tried to hold off writing this one for some time now. When words start seeping out of my fingertips, it means it’s officially over. The jet lag dissipated weeks ago. The luggage has been emptied and all of the clothes laundered at least twice by now. I guess it’s finally time to write about Tokyo.
When we told people we were going to Japan for vacation, those who’d been before responded with similar childlike joy: some would start to bounce where they stood, others would clap and toss their heads back and send a throaty gasp into the clouds. I swear one person’s eyes welled up while she bit her lip to contain her own excitement for someone else’s journey. I didn’t get it then, but I do now: going to Tokyo is a kind of rite-of-passage. Anthony Bourdain said, “Tokyo is transformative,” and he was right. The pre-Tokyo version of Kevin has been replaced with a new-and-improved post-Tokyo version. I am now among the initiated.
Tokyo is the world’s largest city: similar in size to Los Angeles but with almost as many residents as the entire state of California (that’s about 40 million). And while you can occasionally feel that density in places like subways and brief traffic jams, the streets of Ginza 6, our homebase, were never clogged with bodies. Instead, people move like platelets, or packs of flying birds, or any other group of things that looks chaotic but moves following a set of unseen rules. Tokyo is equal parts energy and order, that is: when one becomes too much, leaning into the other provides immediate respite. Energy: gigantic signs with flashing lights and earworms blasting down from lightpoles. Order: always walking on the left on staircases or lining up single file for a bus. Tokyo provides balance in the way it functions. It’s fascinating.
On another axis of the city, history and futurism offer an altogether different kind of balance. Tokyo, sitting equidistant between the two poles, reaches exactly as far forward into the future as it does into its past. Of course, one cannot exist without the other and both take up equal space in almost every line of sight. Take for instance the taxis, modernized replicas of London’s 1948 Austin FX3 black cabs that pull up and pop open a curbside door, totally unprovoked. History + future.
From fashion to food - Tokyo erupts with boisterous personal expression. The wardrobe inspiration I was afforded moving from Ohio to LA is no match to that which I’m bringing back to LA from Japan. Tokyo is a city that vibrates with possibility when it comes to personal style. I don’t think I’ve ever whispered, “Oh my god look at that f*****g outfit,” more times than the week I spent in the streets of this fashionable metropolis. The dollar is strong now, and we took advantage of the fact, returning with a collection of pieces I would likely have never considered before this trip. It’s exciting to feel personal expression evolve - its like clearing away the debris of expectations and getting some sunlight to long covered corners of yourself. Plus, vacation shopping just hits different.
Vacation eating and drinking does, too. We didn’t lack options when it came to incredible food. Noodles, fish, dumplings, and more - all prepared with a ferocious attention to detail. And don’t even get me started on the cocktail culture. More on that can be found in my “Letter to the Japanese Bar Scene.” I’ll just say this: some of the best cocktail experiences I’ve ever had occurred in the crevices of Tokyo, Japan.
My only regret about this Tokyo trip is that there will never be another first one. Sure, we could go back and still have an equally moving experience in another part of town (which I definitely want to do), but it won’t be the same as a first time. The first time is the most absorbent. The second time will be more informed. And without a first time, there can’t be a second time. History. Future.
Shoutout to the Royal Park Hotel - Ginza Six for the incredible hospitality, and to every single person who helped us make some incredible memories on this trip. Some tips listed below for anyone on their way for the first time. (I’m super excited for you.)
Shopping:
Ginza Six - Shopping mall/district offering global high-end brands. Great bars are tucked in all over this area.
Shibuya - Home of one of the busiest intersections in the world, shopping here includes great boutiques, malls, and off the beaten path brands at some great prices.
Shinjuku - Brilliantly buzzing day and night, Shinjuku is definitely worth the stop. More boutiques line the busy streets during the day, and the world famous Golden Gai bar district howls in the night hours.
Getting around:
Suica Card - good for public transportation and even as e-money a certain retailers, Suica Cards makes the subway super easy.
Uber - Also available.
Taxis - Taxis are all over the place in Tokyo and most take cards as payment. Red means the cab is available. Green, occupied.