Subtle Acts of Mischief
Mischief Wine blends artistry and chaos in its natural wines
Jeff Bowers is "a creative."
It's a term that might rub some the wrong way, and I understand why, but when reaching for the most succinct description of the newly minted, natural wine producer, "a creative" is what comes to mind most immediately.
He's a tall, slender man with a rage of dark brown curls packed on top of his head - except for a distinguished pinch of gray that has crept into the locks just behind his ears. His youthful face and clear blue eyes are a delightful contradiction to his eclectic, old-soul style, which, on the day I met him, included a maroon sweater vest (with buttons), a skinny tie (with a tie clip), a striped oxford shirt (with the sleeves rolled to mid-bicep), and pair of red Carhartt pants. In Nebraska, he might be the cool art teacher. Maybe a cult leader in Florida. Aspiring singer/songwriter in Oregon. But regardless of where he is standing, Jeff Bowers stands out.
There is a reason I go through all of that detail about Jeff. Understanding a bit about him and how he shows up in the world means understanding more about the wine he makes. His LA-based Mischief Wine specializes in "sustainably made wines that blend playful expressions with minimal intervention winemaking." And just like Jeff, his wine stands out, too.
"I wanted to make wine that wasn't, like, background noise," he explains to me at a recent by-the-glass event at Santa Monica's sustainable fish dealer, Crudo e Nudo. "Instead, I've tried to make wine that takes up some space and captures your attention. Wine you know is in the room with you." It's refreshing parlance to hear in the often staid and rigid wine industry. "I could make serious wine, but I don't really want to." His fingers click into a pair of air quotes that frame his bright blue eyes when he says 'serious' and he stretches out the word just enough to make it sound like the most boring thing ever, which makes me chuckle.
"I believe in using low-intervention techniques, but I fuck with this wine a lot," Jeff shares as he pours a taste of his skin-contact Chardonnay, Florplay. Florplay is made with grapes from the Los Olivos AVA and spends much of its 45-day fermentation period under flor. (Flor is a layer of yeast that grows on the surface of wine, protecting the juice from oxidation and imparting bready, briny, or nutty flavors. Flor is essential in producing some sherries, some wines from Jura and a few other regions.) The result is an energetic wine with a soft mouthfeel and notes of roasted almonds, lemon zest, and saline. It is an exciting expression of Chardonnay that will challenge any ABC (Anything But Chardonnay) drinker out there.
Jeff is also an artist, which is evident from the packaging he designs for his bottles. He uses both sides of the label to create playful scenes that function like a diorama. His "Emergency Romance" (a stunning carbonic Sangiovese with juicy, bright red cherry notes and a delicate ribbon of tannin) features an illustrated man dangling out of a window holding a pair of wine glasses and a bottle of wine. Once the ruby-hued juice has been dispatched, the man's naked butt can be seen from inside the bottle - a fun little comic strip that appears like a prize at the bottom of a cereal box.
Mischief Wine employs a bit of delicious subterfuge in its production. Its craftsmanship is cloaked in a bit of chaos, which will resonate with the wine-studied and the curious drinker alike. The persimmon-shaded "Something Up Her Sleeve" is a gorgeous Pet-Nat of Grenache Noir blooming with fine, fluffy bubbles and watermelon notes. The grapes for this wine are picked in the middle of the night because, as the website states, "that's how you make things special" (lol), but harvesting in the middle of the night also helps to retain freshness and aid in the concentration of aromas and flavors. See, Mischief Wine makes learning fun. (Except for the part where I learned that the vines from which the grapes for this wine were harvested have been pulled out of the ground by the new vineyard owner - making this the first and last time we can taste this expression. A real "be glad that it happened and not sad that it's over" moment, for sure.)
Natural wines can still be somewhat divisive, especially for those who prefer more traditional winemaking methods. But if you're up for some adventure into the funkier side of wine, Mischief is a great place to start. Excellently made wine, born to stand out - just like its maker.
For now, Mischief Wine is only available for shipping and shopping in California. It is carried at several phenomenal eateries, including Dudley Market, Crudo e Nudo in West LA, and around the Golden State including these spots. At just $28 a bottle, there should always be a little Mischief in your home.
California residents can shop here.
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